Enjoy selected passages from the book ...
Feral - Stray - Abandoned Cats
THE TEN COMMANDMENTS - FROM A PET'S STANDPOINT
The following is taken from the QUARTERLY JOURNAL, NATIONAL HUMANE EDUCATION SOCIETY,
P.O. Box 340, Charles
Town, WV 25414
Tele: 304-725-0506
FAX: 304-725-1523
This selection is from Fitzsimons Army Medical Center, CO.
I. My life is likely to last 10 to 15 years. Any separation from you will be painful for me. Remember that before you get me.
II. Give me time to understand what you want from me.
III. Place your trust in me. It is crucial to my well-being.
IV. Don't be angry with me for long, and don't lock me up as a punishment. You have your work, entertainment and friends. I have only you.
V. Talk to me sometimes. Even if I don't understand your words, I understand your voice.
VI. Be aware that however you treat me, I'll never forget it.
VII. Please don't hit me. I can't hit back, but I can bite and scratch, and I really don't want to do that.
VIII. Before you scold me for being uncooperative, obstinate or lazy, ask yourself if something might be bothering me. Perhaps I'm not getting the right foods, or I've been out in the sun too long, or my heart is getting old and weak.
IX. Take care of me, when I get old. You too will grow old.
X. Go with me on difficult journeys. Never say, "I can't bear to watch," or "Let it happen in my absence." Everything is easier for me if you are there. Remember, I love you.
The following information was provided by:
THE NATIONAL HUMANE
EDUCATION SOCIETY,
P.O. Box 340
Charles Town, WV 25414
Tele: 304-725-0506
FAX: 304-725-1523
Web site:
www.nhes.org
[Editor's Note: The following information should not be construed as veterinary advice. Please consult with your veterinarian and pet professionals for advice.]
Here are some tips for a safe and happy season for your pet.
Food and Water:
Due to the heat, many
dogs and cats are less active in the
summer and may need a change in diet. Ask your veterinarian
about the best diet for your pet. Give your pet plenty of cool,
clean water at all times. Water is so important during the summer.
Refresh the water bowls often, and be sure they cannot tip over.
Shelter:
When outside, a dog must always have a shady and sheltered place to rest. Keep your cat inside so that it won't get lost or injured. He or she will get plenty of exercise inside. Do not use small, partial window screens that can be easily pushed out. Periodically check your complete window screens to see that they are secure. Any opened window without a screen can mean a lost pet.
NEVER go on a mini or
extended vacation and leave your pet tied outside or alone in the house
without anyone to look after
him/her. ALWAYS make arrangements for boarding, pet-sitters or
other caretakers for your pets such as a trusted friend.
Make certain that the people are reliable, caring, and know about your pet's routine care. If they are new to you, ask for references and recommendations from professional people.
Go to the place of business and check it out before leaving your pet there. Make a scheduled appointment and make an unannounced visit also to see conditions at all times. Note the conditions, (clean and well maintained) and the attitude of the staff.
Talk with the personnel who will be working with your pet and sense how they relate to him/her. A written check list for the caretaker is helpful, and keep in touch by telephone. This is like looking for a baby-sitter or a nursery school for your child.
Many pet guardians take their pets with them. Check with a travel agent for the current list of hotels/motels and resorts that allow pets. Check the travel section of this directory. When traveling with your pet, pack a bag for him/her also, with toys and necessities.
Heatstroke and Panting:
Heatstroke is a swift killer. Unlike humans who sweat to cool themselves, dogs and cats cool by panting -- breathing in through the nose and out through the mouth. This draws air over the moist membranes of the nose and tongue and cools by evaporation. Panting only works for a short time.
Prolonged panting can badly upset the metabolic system. High humidity interferes with evaporation and decreases the cooling effect of panting. This increases the possibility of heatstroke. Pets often survive hot days and do not survive on cooler days that are more humid. On these days, if the dog has knocked over his/her water bowls or has no access to shade, this can be fatal.
Dogs are more active in the heat of the day especially if another dog or a strange person comes near, they jump and bark. Intense activity causes the body heat to rise. It is wise to exercise your dog in the cooler hours of early morning or evening. Never force your dog to run in very hot, humid weather.
Confinement is the greatest perpetrator of heatstroke. NEVER leave an animal in a parked car in warm weather – even for a short period of time with the windows open!
On a 75 degree day, the overhead sun on a parked car can very quickly push the temperature to over 120 degrees. It is safer and kinder to leave your dog or cat at home.
The first symptoms of heatstroke are labored panting, drooling and a bright red tongue and gums. The animal may then collapse. If these signs occur, You Must Take EMERGENCY ACTION. Get the animal into cool water, under a cool shower or give it a cool water rubdown immediately.
DO NOT place your pet in ice or ice cold water. DO NOT place the pet's body totally in the water as this often acts to trap heat in his/her body. However, cooling the body back to normal is often not enough to save your pet's life. Rush him/her to a veterinarian for continued treatment.
Skin Diseases and Grooming:
Your pet may have more skin problems in warm weather. If your animal is scratching more than usual or has raw skin, see your veterinarian. Daily brushing will keep your pet's coat healthy and clean.
Daily combing of cats with a flea comb is also helpful. With regular brushing, most animals don't need frequent bathing. Check with your veterinarian before bathing a cat. NEVER use any across the counter products for baths or powders without checking first with a veterinarian especially if the pet is a kitten or puppy.
The following information is drawn from SCRATCHING, an educational brochure of the TREE HOUSE ANIMAL FOUNDATION, 1212 West Carmen Avenue, Chicago, IL 60640-2999
Tele: 773-784-5488
Web site:
www.treehouseanimals.org
[Editor's Note: This information is not to be construed as a substitute for medical or veterinary advice. Please consult with your physician and/or veterinarian for advice and guidance.]
Scratching is an instinctive behavior that cannot be "trained out" of cats. You cannot prevent your cat from scratching (even declawed cats go through the motions of scratching). What you can do is shape your cat's scratching behavior into a better form.
Reasons Cats Scratch:
* Communication. Scratching is a social behavior. It announces your cat's presence, marks territory through both visual and olfactory displays, and expresses frustration or pleasure. If your cat's scratching behavior shows a sudden change in frequency or intensity, look at your cat's social environment. You may need to solve problems in the social environment before beginning behavior modification.
* Grooming. Scratching pulls the "sheath" off of the cat's nails as they get longer.
* Exercise. Cat's feet are designed to keep the nails retracted. Scratching stretches and exercises the muscles and tendons in the toes.
* Recreation. Cats like to scratch. It's fun!
Declawing:
This surgery involves the amputation of an entire joint of each toe (the equivalent of the first knuckle on your hand). Declawing does not have a direct health benefit for cats. It does not stop scratching, which is instinctive.
Interfering with an instinctive behavior can be stressful for the animal. There are alternatives. Scratching behavior can be shaped into an acceptable form, scratching posts, through behavior modification techniques. Trim your cat's nails regularly. This means that the nails are blunt which reduces any potential damage. Your veterinarian or your pet care professional can show you how to safely trim your cat's nails.
Find a scratching post that your cat will use. You may need to watch your cat scratching to find out what fabrics your cat prefers. For example, if your cat only scratches on a wooden chair, you may need a scratching post that is made of wood. Usually cats seem to favor posts that are tall enough to stretch out on, have wide bases so they don't tip over; and are covered with a tightly woven fabric, such as sisal. If you have more than one cat, you will need several posts, maybe even different types.
Put the scratching post where your cat will use it. Place the post in an area of the house that your cat favors. If she likes one scratching location, put the post there. You may need to try a few locations before you find the one she will consistently go to. Use a post that mimics the conditions she prefers--scratching on horizontal or vertical surfaces, or using extra posts in other areas.
Make all other places unavailable and unattractive for scratching. Your goal is to change your cat's current pattern of scratching on the furniture, etc. Use scent deterrents (most cats dislike citrus), heavy plastic, or smooth sheets to make the area unattractive for scratching. When your cat scratches, she is not only visually marking the area, but she also leaves behind the scent from her inter-digital glands. You will need to clean the surfaces your cat has scratched on with an odor neutralizer to remove this scent.
Make the scratching post a pleasant place for your cat. NEVER punish your cat, trim nails, surprise her, etc. in the area of the scratching post. DO play with your cat, feed her treats, place catnip on the post and give her praise and affection around the scratching post. Bring her over to the post and show her where to scratch and give her praise whenever she uses the scratching post.
Use negative reinforcement to keep your cat away from the furniture. Monitor your cat and interrupt her whenever she begins to scratch elsewhere. Don't use your hands or voice. Interrupt your cat's unwanted behavior with a loud noise (shake a can of pennies) or spritz tepid water near her, and re-direct her attention to the scratching post to scratch. Reward her when she uses it.
MOVING WITHOUT YOUR PET???
The following is drawn
from the brochure "NO PETS", A GUIDE TO FINDING "PETS ALLOWED" HOUSING,
provided by TREE HOUSE ANIMAL FOUNDATION
1212 West Carmen Avenue,
Chicago, IL 60640-2999
Tele: 773-784-5488
(This information is not intended as a substitute for legal advice. Please consult with your attorney for legal advice.)
Relocating pet-owners/guardians are one of the largest sources of "give-ups" at humane societies and shelters across the country. As many as 50% of the pets surrendered at shelters come from people facing pet restrictions in rental housing.
Animal shelter workers and veterinarians dread hearing the words, "I'm moving...I have to give up my pet." By being a pet guardian, you have accepted the responsibility for another living being. With a little extra effort, you can enjoy the unconditional love and company of your pet for many happy years wherever you go.
A healthy, vaccinated neutered house pet does not have the ability to find a home for him/herself. The pet depends on people for food, shelter and survival. Be sure that you have exhausted all the possibilities before you decide to give up your pet.
* Look for a foster home.
Think about your new situation. Talk to friends and family members. You can often find someone to agree to care for your pet until you can be reunited with him/her. Your pet will have a good home, and you will still have your pet.
* Find temporary boarding.
Many veterinary clinics will board your pet for a specific period of time. Many areas also have boarding kennels and catteries, in-home pet care services and "vacation" services that find temporary homes for pets rather than boarding them. Start with your Yellow Pages.
* Look for a new home.
[Editor's Note: Try contacting a Non-Profit Community Animal Services Organization. Muffin's Pet Connection is a Pet Listing Service. They assist pet owners who cannot keep their pets. They are NOT a shelter and they work with computerized adoption lists.]
Tele:
718-833-7988.
E-mail address: pets@muffins.org
Web site: www.muffins.org
* Look for a new home.
If boarding or foster care is not possible, try to find a new family for your pet. Advertise through relatives, friends and co-workers, and placing signs with photographs on neighborhood bulletin boards, supermarkets and veterinary clinics. Never say "Free to a good home!" This can attract devious people who sell pets to laboratories where they endure torturing experiments.
Mention your pet's good points, including shots, neutering, loveable personality, unique markings and a long and happy history of being a companion animal. [Editor's Note: Be very cautious, interview the new people and ask for references. Do they have a veterinarian? Have they had a pet before? How long did they keep their pet? What happened to their former pets? See how your pet reacts to them. Take your pet to his/her new home yourself and see if this is the place you want for your pet. If you feel something is wrong, it probably is. Give an excuse and take your pet back home. You have to be certain that these are the people you want to take care of your best friend when you are no longer around.]
* Shelters.
House pets sometimes make the transition to shelter life poorly. Although considered, "most adoptable", surrendered house pets may become ill and die, because of the stress involved in being sudden placed in new and frightening surroundings. Consider a "no-kill" shelter that will keep your pet until a new home is found. "No-kill" shelters are often full, and you must wait for an admission opening. [Editor's Note: NEVER ABANDON YOUR PET! This is considered cruelty, and in many states, that is a felony. Cruelty laws in New York State involve fines and a jail term. The abandoned pets suffer terribly. In strange surroundings, he/she becomes lost and confused. They face starvation, disease, abusive people and children, traffic and predators.]
* Consider your pet's age and health.
A very old or chronically ill pet may not survive any move or transition. It may be too traumatic for him/her. If you have an elderly or chronically ill pet and are faced with an emergency move, consult with your veterinarian and ask for his/her advice.
HOUSING - HOW TO KEEP YOUR PETS
Children and adults benefit from companion animals. A person can receive health benefits from pets in many ways. This includes alleviating a wide range of mental and physical problems and giving emotional support to reduce stress.
Physicians often recommend pets for people who have arthritis, high blood pressure, heart conditions, glandular, skin, respiratory, neurological, orthopedic conditions, depression and many other problems and diseases. A doctor's letter stating that the pet is needed by the person, supports the pet guardian in a housing situation involving the management or the landlord.
A sample letter may read as follows:
To Whom It May Concern:
Ms. Mary Smith is a patient of mine. As part of her medical therapy program, I have recommended that she maintain her cat(s) for emotional support. It is my professional opinion that this is an important support system for her day to day living.
Sincerely,
___________, M.D.
Federal laws for your protection with pets in housing include: The Fair Housing Amendments Act of 1988; Section 227 of the Housing and Urban-Rural Recovery Act of 1983; Section 504 of the Rehabilitation Act of 1973 and the Americans with Disabilities Act of 1990. This includes emotional support animals in "no pet" housing, publicly or privately owned. Ask a librarian to help you locate them in the reference section of the library.
The Housing Opportunity and Responsibility Act was signed into law on October 21, 1998. This allows for residents of most federally assisted rental housing to keep common household pets.
For further information, write or telephone your elected Senators and Representatives. Check your local phone directory for their addresses and phone numbers.
The following is drawn
from MEOW? Understanding Life From Your Cat's Point of View,
provided from TREE HOUSE ANIMAL FOUNDATION
1212 West Carmen Avenue, Chicago, IL 60640-2999
Tele: 773-784-5488
Web site:
www.treehouseanimals.org.
The entire booklet and more excellent information is available from TREE
HOUSE ANIMAL FOUNDATION.
[Editor's Note: This information is not to be construed as veterinary advice. Please consult with your veterinarian and with your pet professionals for advice.]
Many behavior "problems" are really communication problems. Your cat is trying to tell you something. Behaviors are either instinctive or learned. Understand which instinct or learned behavior is involved, and you will better understand the problem.
Cats instinctively dig in loose materials and bury their urine and feces. Scent and location are the two crucial factors in litter box training. Cats will tend to eliminate near where other cats have done so. If the urine or feces smells are too strong, the cat may be repelled. This states the importance of keeping the litter box clean.
Once a cat develops the habit of using a certain spot for elimination, he/she will return there. "Good" litter box users have had their elimination behavior shaped to the litter box in a consistent location over a long period of time. If anything interrupts the scent or location cues, the cat won't eliminate in the usual place. You can use this to encourage litter box use and discourage inappropriate elimination.
At the first sign of litter box problems, take the cat to a veterinarian. Many litter box problems are signs of a urinary tract infection or of a blockage. Defecating outside of the box can be a sign of parasites or inflammatory bowel disease. Consider where the litter box is. If your cat has to go a long distance to find it, such as the far end of the basement, he may pick a more convenient spot. Like humans, cats prefer to keep eating and drinking completely away from the toilet area.
If you place food or water near the litter box, the cat will be disgusted at this; and he/she will eliminate in a different location. This means going to a completely different area away from the food, water and litter box grouping.
How many cats use the same box? Urine and feces are also territorial markers, and many cats do not like to use a litter box that another cat eliminates in. The number of litter boxes should be equal to the number of cats in a home, plus one. A single cat household can have two litter boxes. Scoop solids out of the box(es) at least twice daily and change the litter entirely at least once a week.
Are there any smells that repel the cat from the litter box area? "Deodorizing" litters and additives use chemicals and masking scents that many cats find repulsive. Lemon and other citrus-scented soaps and air fresheners can repel cats out of the room with the litter box. Phenol or pine-based cleaners are repellent and can be toxic.
[Editor's Note: A mild detergent to make a soapy solution is a good cleanser for the litter pan.]
It is very important to completely remove the urine and feces scent from any inappropriate spots where your cat eliminates. Do not trust your own nose because your cat's sense of smell is many times better. Try using one of the enzyme-based pet odor removers.
Preventing access to inappropriate elimination sites may take some creativity. Close the door to the areas where the cat is not allowed. Place a heavy piece of furniture (that the cat can't crawl under) over the spot, thick plastic, foil, and use a repellent scent like citrus.
Just using common sense will prevent a problem from starting. [Editor's Note: Change to a different brand of litter and see if your cat is attracted to using it. When the cat first arrives at your home, actually show her/him where the litter box is, and help the cat to scratch in it. Depending on the size of the cat, try a deeper litter box against a back sheet of plastic. This helps contain the litter from flying about the area. A plastic pan 20 in. x 16 in. x 8 in. is a good size. If needed, make a little stepping stool for your smaller cat and prop it against the pan.]
Avoid leaving personal clothing and plastic bags around where your cat can get at them. Place your potted plants in an off limits room or hang the plants from ceiling hooks. Use protective screening around the soil. [Editor's Note: Check with your veterinarian about plants that may be toxic to your cat. Look up toxic plants in this manual.]
HORSES – THE NORTH AMERICAN RIDING FOR THE HANDICAPPED ASSOCIATION
NORTH AMERICAN RIDING FOR THE HANDICAPPED ASSOCIATION
P.O. Box 33150
Denver, CO 80233
Tele: 800-369-RIDE
Tele: 303-452-1212
FAX: 303-252-4610
Web site: www.narha.org
NARHA was founded in 1969 to promote and support therapeutic riding in the U.S. and Canada and has dramatically grown to 600 riding centers where more than 30,000 individuals with disabilities find a sense of independence through horse-back riding. These centers range from small programs to large operations with several instructors and therapists. For the closest center to you, call NARHA or refer to the Web site, state list of NARHA Riding Centers. This covers the U.S. and Canada and is an excellent time saving directory.
The benefits of horseback riding are as numerous as the types of disabilities and conditions served. Students who participate in therapeutic riding can experience physical, emotional and mental rewards. Riders with physical disabilities often show improvement in flexibility, balance and muscle strength. Down Syndrome, Emotional Disabilities, Hearing and Visual Impairments, Mental Retardation, Muscular Dystrophy, Post Polio Speech Impairments, Spina Bifida, Spinal Cord Injuries, Learning Disabilities, Multiple Sclerosis, Cerebral Palsy, Brain Injuries, Amputations, Stroke, and Autism are the types of disabilities that benefit from equine activities.
For students with mental or emotional disabilities, the unique relationship formed with the horse can lead to increased self-esteem, patience and confidence. The therapeutic qualities of horseback riding are recognized by many medical professionals, including the American Physical Therapy Association and the American Occupational Therapy Association. Please contact NARHA about volunteering at a center or considering a career in therapeutic riding.
NARHA is a membership organization which fosters professional, safe, ethical and therapeutic equine activities through communication, education, standards and research for people with and without disabilities.
DANGEROUS AND POTENTIALLY DANGEROUS SITUATIONS FOR YOUR PETS
Much of the following was
drawn from the brochures HOW TO KEEP FROM LOSING YOUR PET and
HOUSEHOLD DANGERS and other information provided by: TREE HOUSE ANIMAL
FOUNDATION
1212 West Carmen Ave. Avenue, Chicago, IL 60640-2999
Tele: 773-784-5488
Web site:
www.treehouseanimals.org
[Editor's Note: Many of the items listed seem to need only common sense to recognize. Unfortunately, many dangers are already present, and we do not realize this until a tragedy happens. Begin a thorough inventory and tour of your home and property. Note any potential problems. When you see something that is worrisome, write it down in your guide and follow-up on it. Our pets depend on us to protect them. This information is not to be construed as medical or veterinary advice. Please consult with your physician, your veterinarian and pet professionals for advice.]
Cats and dogs are not aware of the dangers outdoors, and many people do not realize they exist. Your responsibility to your pets is to keep them indoors and closely supervised outdoors. Protect them from being hurt or lost. Once pets start roaming outside, they often become confused and lost; and they are prey for thieves. Consider the following dangers that exist daily.
1. Open doors and windows
Unscreened windows and open doors are very inviting for curious or playful pets. Full length screens that are attached or nailed to the windows are necessary. The small portable screens can be easily pushed out and are not safe for either pets or small children. Be careful when you open and close doors leading to the outside. It only takes a few seconds for a pet to escape. If you do not see it happen, your pet may be missing for several hours. Time is precious when looking for a missing animal. Tell all members of the family about watching the doors when visitors come and go.
Every time you leave the house, and at bedtime, check to see where your pet is. If you have several pets, count noses so you know all pets are safe. Be careful that you don't lock a pet in the cellar, a closet, attic or other little used area. Cats often explore open dresser drawers and become locked inside when they are shut.
2. Visitors, Repair and Construction Personnel, Parties, Dinners,
Holiday Banquets, Barbecues, Birthday Celebrations, Dances, new situations, sudden changes and all other occasions that involve people moving about your house and property.
These distractions make it impossible to watch your pets. Place them in a room by themselves with their toys, food, water and a litter pan for the cats. Here, your pets have the security they need. Check your window screens to see that they are closed and in good condition. They may need replacement. You may want to lock the door to the room. Check routinely to see that your pets are okay. If the janitor has a key to your apartment, be sure to mention that your pets stay inside, and that the doors remain closed.
When you are away for a vacation or a mini-vacation, tell your pet sitter that the pets stay indoors and are always walked with a leash. You may consider boarding your pets. Leave an emergency phone number where you can be reached and your veterinarian's phone number with the personnel.
Use a pet carrier to transport cats and small dogs for even a small distance; for example, in the same apartment building. Do not carry a cat in your arms from the car to the house, and never allow your cat to roam about your car en route. Have their collars and ID tags on them with your phone numbers listed. Keep current photos of your pets in their records along with markings and size description.
DO NOT leave a cat or dog out in the yard alone unless you are there to watch over them, as you are leaving them open to thieves. Never leave your pet alone in a parked car. Thieves can open locks in seconds.
Spay and neuter your pets as this reduces your animal's urge to run out and roam. An altered pet is also healthier. An unaltered female may become pregnant after escaping. Do not add to the pet over-population problem.
If you move to a new home, take extra care that your pets do not become lost. New surroundings are a big adjustment for your pets and they can become confused. Confine your cat and dog to a small room at first, with their necessities, and let them become familiar with the new home's scent. Then gradually introduce the pets to the rest of the new house to reduce stress.
3. Cruel, abusive adults and children
There is evidence to support the relationship between cruelty and abuse to animals and cruelty to humans. This includes domestic violence. In a household, often the animals and the children are being abused. Listen to what the children say. If Puffy is being beaten, the child probably suffers the same fate.
It is important not to ignore abusive acts by children toward animals. Teach the child proper care and responsibility at that time toward the pets and stop encouraging an attitude that will lead to violent behavior.
Protect your pets, especially on Halloween. This includes the day and evening before Halloween. Cats, especially, are victimized at this time. Many shelters do not permit the adoption of black cats or white cats for many days prior to Halloween because of the abuse and deaths of the cats in the past.
4. Common household items can be dangerous.
Thread, yarn, string, gift wrapping materials, dental floss, corks, cellophane, aluminum foil from cigarette and gum wrappers, cords from drapes, rubber bands, paper clips and sewing supplies are all on the list. Never leave a pet alone with any of these. They may be swallowed and can cause strangulation, intestinal blockage and death. Many pets die from eating the string that meat roasts are tied with. Don't be misled by pictures of kittens playing with yarn. It is best not to take a chance with your pet's life. Dangling cords can cause injury or strangulation.
Sharp objects of any kind should be stored away to prevent puncture wounds. Do not give thread spools to your pet to play with as the wood or plastic can splinter in the pet's mouth. Keep garbage cans covered with a secure lid. This will stop your pet from finding small bones that splinter when chewed.
Put brooms away after using them. Some pets like to chew on the broom straws which could perforate the intestines, stomach or throat. If your pet likes to play with paper bags. cut the handles off of the shopping bags to avoid his/her head from being caught.
5. Household appliances
Do not let your pets near any appliance that is in use. The sharp blades of a fan can kill. Heating elements on a toaster or portable heater can burn. Check all washing machines, dryers, ovens and refrigerators before use, and keep doors shut at all times. A curious pet may jump inside and die. Cover unused outlets.
6. Pet toys
Avoid any toy that is not well constructed. Never allow your pet to play with a toy that had glued-on decorations or trim. "Mice" and "fish" often have eyes, noses and tails that come loose with play. They can be lodged in the pets throat. Do not let your pet play with single jingle bells or easily swallowed items.
7. Household cleaners and products
As with children, keep your pets away from bleaches, caustic chemicals, disinfectants, cleansers, dyes, toilet bowl cleaners (keep the lid down) and antifreeze. Keep chemicals tightly capped and out of reach. Antifreeze is always a hazard, especially in winter months, as pets often drink it, and this can be fatal. Powdered carpet cleaners are inhaled by pets as they roll about on the floor. It also gets on their fur. ALWAYS READ THE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE CONTAINERS, PARTICULARLY ABOUT CHILDREN AND PETS. If the label states: DO NOT USE AROUND PETS AND CHILDREN, THEN DO NOT USE THIS PRODUCT! Always check with your veterinarian if you are worried about a product. Do not use bug killers in powder form, and if a pet toy should come in contact with a poison, just throw it away. The poison can linger for a long time.
Check bottles for combinations of words having Phenol in the name. Don't use products with Phenol or other harsh chemicals to clean the litter pan. This includes coal tar products, acids, lye bleaches and ammonia. Other poisons include crayons, lime, fertilizers, furniture polish, clothing dyes, paint and varnish remover, dishwasher compounds and broken fluorescent bulbs.
8. People medicines, pain killers etc.
Common over the counter pain killers and other medications that people routinely take without any ill effects can kill a pet. Keep all medications that the people of the household use in a safe place and tightly capped. NEVER give your pet any medication without checking first with a veterinarian.
9. Poisonous plants and foods
Many plants, both the outdoor and household varieties, can be toxic to pets. There is an attached list in your guide here, and if there is doubt with any substance, please check with your veterinarian. Also place the telephone numbers of your veterinarian, emergency hospital and other pet professionals where you can quickly find them. The foods to be avoided are: mushrooms, rhubarb, cherry, acorns, sweet pea and rosary pea, potatoes (especially the eye and any sprouts from the eye; the cooked potato is okay), apricots and peaches (pits). Onions and chocolate are toxic to dogs, especially, and cats.
10. Flea powders and dips
Always check with your veterinarian before using any commercial flea powders, dips etc. Kittens and puppies are especially vulnerable.
11. Lawn care and rodent extermination
Lawn care chemicals can be toxic for your pets. Cats should be indoors at all times. Read all labels carefully on products. Question your landscaper about the products used, and check with your veterinarian about your pets' safety. Keep your pets away from rodent areas. Tell the exterminator you have a pet! Remove people, pets with their food and water dishes from the house during spraying and until all rooms are aired out afterwards. There can always be a danger with chemicals.
RESCUE WORKERS / INDIVIDUAL RESCUE WORKERS
This title is reserved for very special people. They are the men and women who try to save the abandoned animals from the back alleys and the streets. They are usually alone, and they donate their own funds and their own time.
In many cases, they travel long distances twice a day to feed and care for groups of cats that have become afraid of people because of abuse and abandonment. Usually these cats have not been altered, and they have litters of kittens. They have also been forsaken by everyone else.
Because these rescue workers are trying to change the disorder that other people have created and help the community, they deserve praise, help, funding and respect.
Unfortunately, this does not often happen. Please read the following letter that shows very beautifully the day to day heartache of trying to help the animals and be a good citizen.
DEAR NEIGHBORS,
I write on behalf of all the people who feed the stray cats. We are the misunderstood rescue workers (as we call each other), not the ones who belong to large organizations.
We do not use fund-raising, and we don't receive donations. We are people who have families and jobs, and we don't own our homes.
We are people who love animals. We can't walk away from a hungry or sick cat. Our hearts just won't let us. We go into our own pockets to feed, pick-up and have these cats spayed and neutered.
Sometimes, we place a few into good homes. We believe that this will stop more from being born on the streets. A well fed cat is a healthy cat.
Yet, we are known as crazy people. We are chased by the neighbors. We are cursed at, spit on, and sometimes threatened and followed to our homes. We did not bring the cats there! We found them there!!
They were put out by the same people who curse at us. We are trying to clean up a mess that you caused. The kitten that you put out of the house became a cat that was not spayed. This cat continues to look for a mate, has kittens, and cannot find her way back home.
You can chase us out of your neighborhood, and someday, you probably will. The more rescue workers that you chase, the more stray cats you will have.
A couple of cans of cat food would help us or a few dollars (write a check to our veterinarian). Let us band together and get it done faster. Help us, to help you with the stray cats. Help us, to help you clean up your own neighborhood.
Sincerely,
Emma
The following is drawn from CREATURE COMFORTS, A GUIDE TO ANIMALS AND THEIR CARE by THE NATIONAL HUMANE EDUCATION SOCIETY, P.O. Box 340, Charles Town, WV 25414-0340 Web site: www.nhes.org Tele: 1-304-725-0506 Fax: 1-304-725-1523
[Editor's Note: The following information should not be construed as veterinary advice. Please consult with your veterinarian and pet professionals for advice.]
COLD WEATHER
Most dogs are better off indoors except when taken out for exercise. Cats should be kept indoors at all times. The most important reason is for the animal's own safety. One of the hazards a pet faces in winter is exposure to extreme cold.
The pet's feet, ears and other areas of the body not covered by much hair can become frostbitten. Signs of frostbite include skin that is pale and cool to the touch and decreased sensation in the affected area. After thawing, there may be pain, and the skin may look like it was burned. If frostbite is suspected, gently thaw the area with warm water and take your pet to your veterinarian.
Be aware that large, long-haired dogs fare better outside during the winter than others. Ideally the dog should live inside as part of the family. Most veterinarians do not recommend outside housing for a dog six months or younger. During bitter cold weather, bring a dog of any breed inside. If the dog must live outdoors, adequate preparation for the cold months is important.
A dog house must meet certain requirements. The entire house should be a few inches off the ground to prevent dampness. The outside should be waterproof and draft-free, and the entrance needs to be sheltered from the wind. The inside should be just large enough for your dog to lie down in and have a little head room when sitting; do not make it any larger than that because the dog's body heat can help keep the house warm. Fresh hay or straw can be put down and changed periodically to provide additional comfort.
To get plans for building an appropriate dog house, write to: The Anti-Cruelty Society, 157 West Grand Avenue, Chicago, IL 60610.
Knock on the hood of the car or sound the horn before starting up the engine. Cats that are allowed to run free have have been known to climb up inside the engine seeking warmth. This can cause horrible injuries and death once the car is started.
HAZARDOUS SUBSTANCES
Ethylene glycol, the major ingredient in antifreeze, attracts dogs and cats because of the sweet taste. IT IS POISONOUS and usually fatal, if swallowed. The Illinois Animal Poison Control Information Center says pets that drink antifreeze may act drunk, stagger and be depressed, often within 30 minutes. This behavior can last from six to twelve hours, at which time, the animal may appear better. However, within two days, a fatal dose will cause prolonged vomiting, severe kidney pain, ulcers in the mouth and a very painful death from kidney failure. If your pet should swallow any antifreeze, call a veterinarian at once.
ROCK SALT UNDERFOOT
Rock salt is used often for icy sidewalks and slippery roads. It is abrasive and may cut into an animal's paws and burn his/her mouth. Dogs may eat rock salt, which will cause vomiting. When bringing in a pet from the outside during a icy day, check the feet. Remove the ice balls between the animal's toes and wipe the feet with a damp towel, especially after walking in an area where rock salt or other chemicals were used.
Never let your dog off the leash during a snowstorm. He/she cannot easily retrace the scent over the snow and ice and can lose the way.
HOLIDAY DECORATIONS AND FOOD
To prevent a tree from toppling over, anchor it in a heavy bucket of sand and tie it down. Better yet, close off the decorated rooms when pets are unattended. Select ornaments and trimmings with care. Small pieces of ornaments, tinsel, angel hair and ornament hangers can be fatal to pets if swallowed. To discourage dangerous electrical cord biting, place hot pepper sauce or Bitter Apple from a pet store directly on the cord.
Please do not give an animal as a gift. A companion animal means a daily responsibility for his/her entire life. Bring the pet into the family after the holidays when traveling and entertaining are less. This will give time for the pet and the people to greet each other and become acquainted.
[Editor's Note: Please read the sections Dangerous And Potentially Dangerous Situations For Your Pets, Dangers In The Outdoors For Your Pets, and Dangers To Your Pet – Toxic Plants in SECTION ONE for a comprehensive listing of toxic substances.Check he EMERGENCIES — POISONING and POISONING — EMERGENCIES sections for telephone numbers to call]
Mistletoe, holly and bittersweet should be kept well out of reach of pets and small children. The entire mistletoe plant is toxic, and one or two berries can cause death. The leaves of the poinsettia plant can cause digestive problems and the sap can cause skin and eye irritation. Pine needles, when eaten, also make a pet very sick.
Holiday foods that are high in fat and milk can cause vomiting and diarrhea in dogs and cats. Chocolate can be toxic to dogs because it contains theobromine to which they are particularly sensitive. No animal should ever be given alcohol.
Increase your pet's supply of food, especially protein. Provide your pet with a warm place to sleep and a nice bed. Taking good care of your pets in winter and protecting them from the hazards of the season will bring a little warmth into the long, cold days of your own winter hibernation.
PETS IN HOUSING
If you need help to keep your pets with you, there are federal laws for your protection. This information is not to be interpreted as a substitute for medical or legal advice. Please consult with an attorney and your physician for advice.
1. The Fair Housing Amendments Act of 1988
2. Section 227 of the Housing and Urban-Rural Recovery
Act of 1983
3. Section 504 of the Rehabilitation Act of 1973
4. Americans with Disabilities Act of 1990.
Children and adults benefit from companion animals. A person can receive health benefits from a pet in many areas that include a wide range of mental and physical problems to emotional support to reducing stress. A letter from a doctor stating that the pet is needed by the person supports the pet person in a housing situation involving the management or a landlord.
The Housing and Urban-Rural Recovery Act also protects the right of people age 62 and older to have pets, if they live in federally assisted housing for the elderly or handicapped. Some state laws protect the right of the elderly to pets in both public and private housing.
The Urban-Rural Recovery Act states that anyone living in federally-assisted housing for the elderly or disabled has the right to keep pets. The other three laws all require "reasonable modi- fications" or "reasonable accommodation" to rules, policies or practices to permit a person with a disability equal opportunity.
This includes emotional support animals in "no pet" housing publicly or privately owned.
On October 21, 1998 , the Housing Opportunity and Responsibility Act was signed into law. This allows all tenants in public housing to have "reasonable pets". Follow up on this law for further information.
EXAMPLES OF LAWS RELATING TO HOUSING AND PETS
[Editor's Note: This information is not be to construed as a substitute for legal advice. Please consult with an attorney for legal advice. Always check the CUMULATIVE SUPPLEMENT or the “Pocket Parts” at the back of the reference books for the latest updating on every section.]
NEW YORK CITY CHARTER AND ADMINISTRATIVE CODE, ANNOTATED, A complete text of the New York City Charter and the New York City Administrative Code with court decisions from the time of the enactment of the Code and Charter, New York Legal Publishing Corp., Guilderland, NY 1993.
NEW YORK ADMINISTRATIVE CODE, Title 27, Chapter 2, Housing Maintenance Code, SUBCHAPTER 2, MAINTENANCE, SERVICES, AND UTILITIES, ARTICLE 1, OBLIGATIONS OF OWNER AND TENANT: DUTY TO REPAIR, Section 27-2009.1, Pages 336 – 337.
§ 27 – 2009.1 Rights and responsibilities of owners and tenants in relation to pets. a. Legislative declaration. ... Because household pets are kept for reasons of safety and companionship and under the existence of a continuing housing emergency it is necessary to protect pet owners from retaliatory eviction and to safeguard the health, safety, and welfare of tenants who harbor pets under the circumstances
provided herein, it is hereby found that the enactment of the provisions of this section is necessary to prevent potential hardship and dislocation of tenants within this city.
b. Where a tenant in a multiple dwelling openly and notoriously for a period of three months or more following taking possession of a unit, harbors or has harbored a household pet or pets, the harboring of which is not prohibited by the multiple dwelling law, the housing maintenance or the health codes of the city of New York or any other applicable law, and the owner or his or her agent has knowledge of this fact, and such owner fails within this three month period to commence a summary
proceeding or action to enforce a lease provision prohibiting the keeping of such household pets, such lease provision shall be deemed waived.
c. It shall be unlawful for an owner or his or her agent, by express terms or otherwise, to restrict a tenant’s rights as provided in this section. Any such restriction shall be unenforceable and deemed void as against public policy....
[Editor's Note: The word "feral" is an adjective that means "wild" or "untamed". When it pertains to outdoor cats, this description is not a fair one. Most of these frightened, beautiful animals were at one time the pet of a person. They were affectionate and loveable, and somewhere along the way, they became victims of a cruel and uncaring human population. The following selection is a collection of experiences and views of people who tried to help this situation in one community. This information is not to be construed as veterinary or legal advice. Please consult with your pet professionals.]
Whether you live in the country or in the city, sooner or later, you will start to feel sorry for yourself and blame your surroundings. One good way to lift your spirits is to involve yourself with a group whose life is far more persecuted, destitute and painful than you will ever know.
That is the world of the stray or feral cat. This cat has been glamorized in books and in the entertainment industry, but the reality of the situation is far from glamorous. It only takes two abandoned cats, one male and one female, not altered, to create in a few months, a large "misery mill" of sick and starving cats and kittens. Many states now have laws stating that cruelty to animals is a felony. It is our belief that anyone who deliberately abandons a cat, especially a pregnant female, should be included in this area and given the appropriate fines and jail terms.
Although the laws are in place to protect the animals, in some communities, law enforcement labels stray cats as "wild and free". An abused animal in a home situation receives a response to a complaint; but the moment the animal is thrown outdoors, he or she goes into a limbo that does not receive a response or investigation??
Cruelty is cruelty, whether it is indoors or outdoors. No one can draw an invisible line, and try to make it look right. This means that protection of feral cats needs special attention, and members of the community must demand laws and protective measures. Start with a block association, a civic group, town meetings, articles in the local newspapers, PTA meetings and local politicians.
This is a quality of life problem for both the people and for the animals. Would you buy property on a block that had starving and sick animals running through the streets and yards?
If you are looking for someone to help the immediate situation, look in the mirror. If your neighbors choose to ignore what is happening, then ask your friends and relatives to help. Two or three people is an excellent start. Ask for the cooperation of the people in the area where the cats are and explain that you are trying to help both the cats and the people with a community service.
First, make a plan. Learn about feral cats and ask for information from organizations listed in this manual. Become familiar with traps and use good judgment. Never leave a trap unsupervised and watch from adistance. The trap-neuter-release program has been very successful, but the area where the cats are located must be a safe one with practical shelters for warmth and protection. A sensible shelter can be improvised with low cost materials. Arrange a schedule with your friends for giving food and fresh water at least twice daily, with a back up system so that the cats will not be overlooked.
Evaluate your total living situation and determine how many cats you can provide for adequately. Always set funds aside for veterinary care and use low cost certificate plans and clinics for neuter and spay. Spaying and neutering of feral cats and companion pets must be mandatory to the extent that this is a law in communities. People often become responsible pet guardians when laws are enforced. Set up a network with pet professionals for foster care and adoptions.
Ask your friends about doing foster care, especially for kittens. Routinely check the local shelters regarding vacancies and ask if their policies include "no-kill". Ask for advice from veterinarians and other pet professionals to provide the best care for the cats and screen people carefully with adoptions.
Be prepared for the down side. Often, there will be only yourself to rely on. Sometimes you will receive a "Thank you" from the people you help, or you may be ridiculed and cursed at. Your new feline friends may have suffered too much before you found them, and they are very ill to the point of euthanasia. You will have many tears and frustrations to deal with. Many of us have happily adopted stray cats into our homes and we enjoy the unconditional love and the healing qualities that the cats bring with them. Some people are trying to save the stray cats and they need help. These valuable animals should be appreciated and not victimized by ignorance.
The sketches of the dogs and cats in this guide are important to us. They represent the animals who inspired the making of this book.
They were victims of cruelty by people. They had been abandoned, abused and thrown away. They were living creatures, not articles of trash. Some were able to recover from the trauma, but some could not, as their injuries were too severe.
The connection between violence to animals and violence to people cannot be ignored any longer. It has been documented too many times, especially with serial killers. If you see someone abusing an animal, look closer. Someone in that family may be a victim, and you could be next. There must be a greater awareness of the seriousness of this issue. You cannot say, "It's just a dog. It's just a cat." The consequences are much deeper than that. There must be more reporting of incidents and more involvement and enforcement at a community level. It has to start somewhere.